Gladioli prefer a sunny area where the soil has been cultivated at a depth of 30–40 cm and is fertile and slightly acidic (pH 5.5–7). Loosen the soil a couple of weeks before planting and mix in the fertiliser (50 g ammonium sulphate and 15 g potassium sulphate per square metre). Soak the bulbs for 12 hours in lukewarm potassium permanganate solution immediately before planting, soak the daughter bulbs for 24–36 hours. Water the bed once a week if there is little rainfall in the spring and summer. Be sure to loosen the soil after watering or rain. Mature corms will be planted at a depth of 10–12 cm in light soils and at a depth of 2–3 cm in heavy clay soils. Smaller corms are planted at a depth of 5–8 cm. The tiny corms (which form between the old and new corm in the autumn) are planted no deeper than 3–5 cm, and are planted a week earlier than the mature corms. Corms that are planted too deep will bloom late and not as abundantly. In cool, rainy summers, corms that are planted deep are also plagued by bacterial and fungal diseases. It is advisable to cover the gladiolus bed with a 2–3 cm layer of peat or compost that is rich in humus. Gladioli should be fertilised until they start to bloom, and an aqueous solution of complete fertiliser can be used for this purpose. Solid fertiliser (20–30g/m2) sprinkled between the plants is also suitable. The gladioli need to be watered after fertilisation. Resistance to cold Sensitive to cold. Do not experiment with keeping them outside in the winter, as it will definitely destroy them. Gladiolus corms should be kept indoors in the winter. It is recommended to dig the flowers up in dry and sunny weather and before night frosts, cut off the tops, and leave a short stalk. The corms are then dried. For this, it is good to use shallow boxes (wood or plastic) where the corms are placed in a thin layer. Make sure not to mix the varieties as you are digging them up. Mark each variety with a label, if necessary.